Material Comparison
Side-by-side specs for common 3D printing filaments. Pick up to four to compare. Temperature ranges, strength and flex ratings, outdoor and food-contact notes, and use-case guidance for each.
How to use this
The goal is quick sanity checks, not a comprehensive materials database. Ratings are community consensus typicals, not scientific measurements. Brand variation matters: a cheap PLA from a no-name Amazon seller will print differently than Polymaker or Prusament.
When you've decided on a material, the Filament Cost Calculator will estimate what the print will cost. The Print Time Estimator covers how long it'll take.
The decision tree (skip the table, just answer these)
For most prints, four questions resolve the material choice faster than reading specs:
- Will it live outdoors or in a hot car? If yes, skip PLA. PLA softens at 55 to 60°C and degrades from UV. Use PETG (basic) or ASA (UV-stable) instead.
- Does it need to flex or absorb impact? If yes, TPU. Phone cases, gaskets, watch bands, bumpers. PLA and PETG snap; TPU bends.
- Does it need to handle high temperature (above 80°C)? If yes, you need ABS, ASA, PA (nylon), or PC. These all need an enclosed printer and good ventilation.
- None of the above? Use PLA. It's cheap, easy, prints clean, doesn't need an enclosure, doesn't need a fancy hotend. The only reason most people leave PLA is one of the constraints above.
Quick reference: temperature ranges
| Material | Nozzle | Bed | Enclosure? | Heat resistance |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 200-220°C | 50-60°C | No | ~55°C |
| PETG | 230-250°C | 70-85°C | Helpful | ~75°C |
| ABS | 240-260°C | 100-110°C | Required | ~95°C |
| ASA | 240-260°C | 100-110°C | Required | ~95°C (UV stable) |
| TPU | 220-240°C | 50-60°C | No | ~70°C (varies) |
| Nylon (PA) | 240-280°C | 70-100°C | Required | ~150°C |
| Polycarbonate (PC) | 260-310°C | 100-130°C | Required | ~135°C |
Strength, flex, and durability ratings (community typical)
| Material | Tensile strength | Impact resistance | Flex | Outdoor (UV) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | Strong (rigid) | Brittle | None | Poor |
| PETG | Medium | Good | Slight | Fair |
| ABS | Medium | Good | Slight | Poor (UV) |
| ASA | Medium | Good | Slight | Excellent |
| TPU | Low (in tension) | Excellent | High | Fair |
| Nylon | High | Excellent | Slight | Fair |
| PC | Highest | Excellent | None | Fair |
A common mistake: assuming PLA is weak because it's easy. PLA actually has the highest tensile strength of common filaments. It just shatters under impact. PETG bends instead.
When to pick each material (real use cases)
- PLA: display models, cosplay accents, quick prototypes, tabletop minis, indoor functional parts that don't see heat. Default choice.
- PETG: outdoor parts (planters, garden brackets), water bottles, replacement clips on appliances, parts that get bumped, anything in a car interior or attic.
- ASA: outdoor parts that PETG isn't tough enough for. License plate frames, exterior automotive trim, mailbox parts. Needs an enclosed printer.
- ABS: mostly legacy choice now. Use ASA instead unless you specifically need acetone vapor smoothing.
- TPU: phone cases, watch bands, gaskets, soft wheels, drone landing gear, anti-vibration mounts.
- Nylon (PA): functional engineering parts. Gears, hinges, snap fits that need to flex without breaking. Hygroscopic, needs drying.
- Polycarbonate: high-stress mechanical parts, safety gear, transparent structural pieces. Demanding to print.
Pricing reality (per kg, average 2026)
- PLA basic: $18 to $25/kg
- PLA premium (Polymaker, Prusament): $28 to $38/kg
- PETG: $22 to $30/kg
- ABS: $20 to $28/kg
- ASA: $30 to $40/kg
- TPU 95A: $30 to $45/kg
- Nylon (basic): $35 to $55/kg
- Polycarbonate: $50 to $80/kg
- Carbon-fiber-filled (PA-CF, PETG-CF): $60 to $120/kg
Sale prices on Bambu, Polymaker, eSun, and Sunlu can drop these by 20 to 35% during major events (Black Friday, mid-year clearance). Stock up when basic PLA hits $15/kg.
Frequently asked
- Which material should a beginner start with?
- PLA. It's forgiving, prints at low temperatures, doesn't warp badly, and works on almost any printer without an enclosure. Start here, master the basics, then branch out to PETG or TPU when you hit its limits.
- When should I switch from PLA to PETG?
- When your prints live outdoors, need to handle temperatures above roughly 50°C (car interiors in summer, garage storage), or need to be stronger and more impact-resistant. PETG is a natural second material for most hobbyists.
- Is ABS still worth using?
- Only if you need its specific properties: high heat resistance, acetone vapor smoothing, or authentic automotive-grade parts. ASA is usually a better modern choice because it handles UV exposure that ABS doesn't. Both need an enclosed printer and good ventilation.
- What makes TPU different?
- It's flexible. Prints bend, stretch, and bounce back. Good for phone cases, gaskets, wheels, and shock absorbers. Hard to print on Bowden extruders (the tubing flexes during retractions), easy on direct-drive.
- Is polycarbonate for hobbyists?
- Generally no. PC needs 260 to 310°C nozzle temps and a heated bed of 100 to 130°C, which exceeds what most consumer printers can hit reliably. If you need extreme strength or transparency, PC is the answer, but the setup cost is high.
- What about food contact?
- No 3D print is fully food safe because layer lines trap bacteria. 'Contact-safe' certifications on some PLA and PETG only apply to the raw filament, not the finished print. For food surfaces, use food-safe epoxy coating or pick a different manufacturing method.